ZAKARIA STREET: an emotion of the city

What are the perks of growing up in India, particularly in Bengal?
Any guesses?

Well, to me the biggest has been the opportunity to soak in the secular air that our country is known for. I will not speak for other states, or any of the residents of this state, to me, the word secular wasn't just limited to those boring chapter of Civics in school, we got to live in that atmosphere.

Times were different then! Well you don't need to find references from history, a good twenty years rewind will give you a fair enough idea, of what I am talking about. More on this nostalgic & sensitive topic, some other day, for sure!!And now, back to something, which is more important.

If not the calendar, then social media or a holiday at work, must have made you aware of the beautiful festival of Ramadan or Ramzan, as we call it, falls tomorrow. Only of course, if the moon has a confirmed train ticket unlike most travelers whose trip was in jeopardy because of  RAC & GNWL, this month, owing to the difficulty in getting train reservation ( the other's have pre-planned you see!! There is always a next time.).

Unlike many other religious communities, Islam has always had a prominent influence on our gastronomic scene, across all castes creeds & social status. And all of those influences, shaped as delicacies, comes out of their secret recipe notes and gets displayed on their iftar table. Many that we know, have enjoyed an invitation to some iftar gathering or the other. I mean I don't mind forging friendship and relationships if the return promises to be such a mouth-watering affair.


These people with their formidable faith deserve that table laden with food, after days and months of fasting. Month's like this, allows us shape our future by practicing abstinence from things that are said & unsaid ( society doesn't allow us to talk about it often. And I would like to believe I am a good citizen), which is almost a forgotten trait of human beings.  But on a serious note, their iftar starts with couple of glasses of water, Rooh-afza (much loved & it's absence might cause hue & cry), dates, fruits, making it's way to the ore elaborate affairs. Not to forget the big thaal, a large plate in which all of it is served. Yes, I a stressing and talking about the idea of communal eating, a sense of sharing which translates to caring!!

However, the one's who have been unable to secure any such invitation, have an easy way to savour all or most of those delicacies. Here's how: Visit Zakaria Street, lane adjacent to Nakhoda Masjid. For more about directions: Trust google, or anyone but me!! I do not mind confessing of my handicapped nature in that matter.

This post is nothing special. Many food bloggers in the past & present , or publications have come up with their own versions and stories, which I have enjoyed reading myself. So I am not going to do much talking (contrary to the fact, my garrulous nature has always earned me compliments or disdain). Despite not being well versed with the principles of photography, I did manage to click a few, in the middle of the night, when I visited Zakaria street, last year with a couple of friends, in toe. Middle of the night, because of my bad research. But we did secure some food, and missed out on a lot more and were happy to get lost in the world of gastronomy.

Here are those clicks for you to enjoy:





As said earlier we entered the food heaven, almost in the middle of the night, so most of the shops hd closed business for the day. The much famed Mejbool dates and fruit sellers ( they are found in the begining of the lane: it's kind of a much thought about formation, I feel) had already packed up and left. But our entry, was no less grand!! Ever heard of Sheermal (soft sweet bread ) & Bakharkhani (a sort of crispy sweet bread)?? We not only photographed and touched and smelt & felt, also tasted some. I even packed in some for folks back home. Also there were different kinds of biscuits..Not the commercial kinds, that we see in daily life. These ones were chunky, had a bite, chewy and fragrant with the stories of a communal bakery. Please be kind enough not enquire about their names. It's too much to remember for my failing memory. But my taste buds do think of the them, often!!








Please spare me the horror, if you happen to be the one of those who enquires for vegetarian delicacies, during this time of the year. I do not. Nor do my friends!! Not sure about its day time affairs or early evening avatar, on my arrival I did find this to be a heaven for meat lovers, even with scant options to gorge onto. The images above bears testimony to what I say!! The much famed Chicken Changezi (they say the spice mix has 50 different kind of spices: yes you heard me right), which boasts of a secret recipe that is being used for genrations, or the buttery chicken kebabs, with a hint of tang, not to forget the freshest chicken boti, grilling on the tandoor. And then there was a smiling server!! Festivals of any religion or faith is about spreading love and welcoming everyone to be a part of it. This place proves that. This image of this smiling man, sweaty with hard work, heat and humidity & fasting, still managed to plaster smile on his face while dishing out plate-fulls to all hungry bellies like ours. I wonder if anyone ever asked him, Did he have the oppurtunity to have a grand iftaar ever?



Again, apologies for the bad memory, which is no longer a secret. I did come across this one, little stall, selling Poori and Sabzi, freshly made ofcourse, for the ones who do not prefer to savour non-vegetarian delicacies. I however just photographed, exchanged a smile and walked away. Friends did the same.



Have you ever heard of anyone ending a meal at iftaar gatherings, without a partake at the desserts displayed. We couldn't resist it as well. Shahi Tukda all consumed, there was Malpua with Rabri topped with chopped pistachio (love the melange of colours),  and the Mango Falooda, waiting for owls like us. Oh, how I regret, not making a trip this time!!!




And we were indeed taken aback to discover some hidden beauties other than gastronomy as well!! These striped fabrics, known as lungi's, were woven in Bangladesh (or so told). Not to forget the lacquer bangles and neck pieces that were on display. It is indeed humbling to know, that even today, in the days of machine manufactured goods, there are hands that still sweat under the heat to create such beauties. If we talk about handwork that makes a product unique, then for sure these are no less than haute-couture ( you are free to agree to disagree on this. Remember, even street food stalls are being awarded Michelin Stars these days). Right here, on the street!! Just that we need to open our eyes, more importantly our hearts to discover them. 


While the other shopkeepers must have had taken to their makeshift beds, we spotted this one shop that night, open, un-guarded by any living soul except a four legged. Sadly, No shopping in here!! But the idea of thickened milk and seviyan or Vermiclli ( yes I am talking about Sheer-Kurma) cooked with generous portions of dry fruits, is every foodies delight. 



Wait!! 
You don't need to scroll up, two or three times, nor did I miss out on the obvious ones: Haleem, Paya, Biriyani, Beef platters, Suta kebab or that giant marinated Rohu which never failed to capture any attention. Those are not her!!. But someday, those will also be apart of my blog. Insha-allah
All those cauldrons of  haleem, cooked on slow fire over night were exhausted in satiating hunger pangs of others. Even all grains of Biriyani was polished off, before we could set foot on that food mecca lane, leaving behind  a heart warming aroma of it. It will not be wrong, I suppose to conclude, once biriyani gets into your veins, it's difficult to fore-go of the taste, or is it the other way round?!

I know, by the time, this post will be up, this market will be gone. 
You will probably be preparing or planning for biriyani lunch or dinner for tomorrow. Which is what you are supposed to!! And like me, if you missed out on this form of pleasure this year, cheer-up, there is always a next time. For most of the things in life. Am I being too optimistic, that way? Comm'n We are talking food, festivals, faith: all combined together to form this one word- Optimism. So stick to it!! And smile.

Who knows, next time, we might just bump into each other and share a bite or two together!!!






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